Lamu Island is a place that feels suspended in time as if carved from the pages of a long-forgotten era. Each time I’ve been fortunate enough to visit, it’s as though the clock slows, and the island remains unchanged, holding onto its unique charm despite the passing years. Nearly two decades have passed between my first visit and my most recent. Yet, Lamu’s essence remains intact—its narrow streets still echo with the clip-clop of donkeys, its people as warm and welcoming as ever, offering genuine hospitality without the hustle. With only three cars on the island, life here moves at its rhythm, where watches feel redundant, and technology takes a back seat. If you ever get the chance to visit, Lamu Island will imprint itself on your memory, and if, like me, you’re lucky enough to return, it may just become one of your favourite places in the world.
Arriving in Lamu
The pace slows as soon as you land at the airport on Manda Island. After collecting your bags, the hotel representatives meet you and take your bags down the pier, where a boat transfer is waiting to take you across to your accommodation on Lamu or Manda Island. The airport has improved hugely since my first visit when it was a thatched-roof structure with open sides and a few benches, but thankfully, little else has changed. We flew direct from Jomo Kenyatta Airport in Nairobi, flights are also available from Wilson airport in Nairobi.
Our boat transfer took us to the Peponi Hotel, our home for the next 3 nights. The Peponi Hotel has been a well-known part of Lamu’s history since 1967. Originally a small guesthouse started by the Korschen family, it has grown while maintaining its intimate feeling. The hotel now has 28 rooms, a pool, a private restaurant for guests, a separate daytime open-air dining area, and a public bar and restaurant.
As the boat pulls up to the beach outside the hotel, a small wooden ramp is placed, and you are walking down barefoot onto the soft white sand and lapping water. Having grown up and back living on an island, this is my heaven. The relaxed atmosphere is immediately apparent. Locals walking by with their donkeys, a famous feature of Lame because it is a huge sandune with no roads for cars (although there are apparently 3 cars on the island).
We were taken up to the hotel and walked through its renowned bar, a popular gathering spot for visitors and residents alike, where many famous faces have been spotted over the years. We checked in while enjoying the hotel’s signature “Old Pal” cocktail, a deliciously refreshing creation by Lars Korchen.
Our “superior” room was on the beachfront, overlooking the water between Lamu and Manda Island. Manda Island is home to ancient Swahili ruins, such as Takwa, a 15th-century trading settlement, and is mostly undeveloped. We settled into our room, enjoying the swinging hammock on the veranda (which turned into my after-lunch nap spot), then headed to the pool for a pre-lunch dip.
Baobab trees shade the pool area and offers plenty of private lounging spaces, including double sunbeds and hammocks. Drinks and snacks can be ordered poolside or at the nearby bar.
We chose to enjoy all our lunches at the open-air dining area, located on the roof of our rooms, with a great view out to Manda Island and a beautiful breeze keeping us cool. The menu features an array of fresh seafood, locally sourced ingredients, and a mix of European and Swahili dishes. I enjoyed a tuna carpaccio and prawn tempura sushi roll with a crisp glass of cold Rose. The fish is caught from the surrounding water, you can see the fishermen bringing them up and filleting them on the beach, your sushi doesn’t get much more fresh then that!
In the afternoon, we walked along Shela Beach, passing Fort Shela, an incredible coral stone building with 50-foot high sandstone walls and an impressive Omani-style heavy wooden door built on sand with views of the Indian Ocean and 14 kilometres of wild coastline. Beyond the fort, the landscape is untouched – just dunes, donkeys and the occasional camel. The remoteness is rare in today’s world. Swimming is possible here, but there are currents, so it’s best to follow the lead of the local swimmers. If you are unfamiliar with ocean currents, sticking to areas near the hotel is advised.
As the evening set in, we returned to Peponi’s bar for cocktails. The area attracts both locals and visitors, making it a great spot for people to watch and listen to the expact community of Lamu.
One of the great things about Lamu is the safety – we slept with our windows and veranda door open, letting the sea breeze keep us cool throughout the night and the ceiling fan above the beds.
I woke just before sunrise, too excited about the day ahead and took my book out to the veranda. Sitting in the hammock, I read while watching the first fishermen head out to sea and the sky turn a beautiful orange as the sun rose. It was absolute bliss.
We headed to Peponi’s restaurant for breakfast, which is included in the rate. There is a great selection; I opted for the smashed avocado with a side of bacon. Kenyan avocados are locally grown and far superior to the ones in the UK. The restaurant is alongside the beach, so we could enjoy watching people taking their morning swims, boats puttering along the water and donkeys passing by.
After breakfast, we took a walk around Shela Village. Shela is a charming, quiet village with beautiful boutique shops and narrow walkways that are easy to get lost in. But since it’s so tiny. as long as you head downhill at some point, you’ll always end up back on the coast. The village is designed this way to help rainwater flow down the streets and naturally clean them. Everyone in Shela is incredibly friendly, and while locals may invite you to try their homemade tamarind juice or see inside their shops, there’s no pressure or harassment. As a female visitor, I felt completely safe walking around alone.
After wandering through Shela, it was back to our books, and the hammock next to the pool with a passion fruit daiquiri – cocktails before lunch are the epitome of luxury when travelling without the children.
After our afternoon siesta, we headed out on one of the few activities we had booked for our time here – a sunset dhow boat ride. While there are many activities available in Lamu, our priority was relaxation. A dhow is a traditional wooden sailing boat used along the East African coast, often featuring a triangular sail. While some now have engines, they still rely mainly on wind power. Our captain, a well-known winner of the annual dhow racing competitions, picked us up from the Peponi bar as he collected our pre-ordered cool box and snacks from the hotel. We had the entire boat to ourselves with comfortable seating and cushions on the bow for lounging.
The dhow ride took us along the mangroves as we enjoyed our local Tusker beers. As the sun set, we navigated through small tributaries along Manda Island, passing beautiful private houses and the Majlis Hotel. Drumming music from other dhows at sunset perfectly ended this trip. The trip lasted about an hour and a half and cost £60 for the private boat – well worth it for such a magical experience.
Back at Peponi, we indulged in delicious feta and artichoke samosas.I enjoyed cards and dinner under the bougainvillaea, the cool evening breeze and the waves lapping at the shore.
On our final day, we ensured no “to-do’s” and enjoyed where the day took us (which wasn’t far from the hotel pool and bar).
Another popular activity when visiting Lamu is the Lamu Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its well-preserved Swahili architecture and centuries-old history. The town dates back to at least the 14th Century and has long been a centre of trade, influenced by Arab, Persian, and Indian Cultures. Visitors can explore its narrow alleyways and the Swahili House Museum or experience the bustling markets. I had been to Old Town on my last two trips if I had more time, we would have gone again but the order of the day was to relax!
Although just 72 hours, our time in Lamu felt much longer. The beauty of this place is how time slows down – there’s no rush to see everything or visit multiple restaurants. Instead, you enjoy each moment without worrying about what comes next.
Lamu offers a variety of accommodations and activities, and if you are considering a visit, check out my guide to Lamy for more details on where to stay, eat and explore.
